I. Once upon a time in Mexico -- La Gruta -- Surreal in the Sierra Gorda -- Dreamers and mad monks -- City of mud -- Toledo's ghost -- Techno tribal -- Dinner with Lauren -- Fitzcarraldo and Dr. Leroy -- II. The yellow house -- The gringo Jarocho -- Katanchel: Sacha's honeymoon -- To Palenque -- Conversations with Pakal -- Fridamania -- Restless fiesta -- III. Fugue.