| Description |
447 pages : illustrations ; 25 cm |
| Contents |
Off Diamond Head (Honolulu, 1966-67) -- Smell the ocean (California, ca. 1956-65) -- The shock of the new (California, 1968) -- 'Scuse me while I kiss the sky (Maui, 1971) -- The search (The South Pacific, 1978) -- The lucky country (Australia, 1978-79) -- Choosing Ethiopia (Asia, Africa, 1979-81) -- Against dereliction (San Francisco, 1983-86) -- Basso profundo (Madeira, 1994-2003) -- The mountains fall into the heart of the sea (New York City, 2002-15). |
| Summary |
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales. |
| Subject |
Finnegan, William.
|
|
Surfers -- United States -- Biography.
|
| Genre/Form |
Autobiographies.
|
| ISBN |
9781594203473 (hardcover) |
|
1594203474 (hardcover) |
|
