The head of Saint Kiryollos -- What I write about and what I do not write about -- The video -- A conversation about martyrdom -- The martyrs' bishop -- The martyrs' pilgrimage church -- The martyrs' village -- The martyrs' houses -- With the martyrs' families -- Saint Menas's oil -- Matthew the Copt -- Abuna Bolla and Abuna Timotheus -- The martyrs' liturgy -- The flight into Egypt -- Hierarchical style -- Pilgrimage to the cloisters -- Wonders old and new -- With the Zabbaleens of Mokattam village -- A Coptic fantasia -- New Cairo, a mirage -- The minority and the majority -- Epilogue: the invisible army of martyrs.